FABRIC: COMPOSITIONAL PROPERTIES

How this can affect the quality, pattern structure and nature of the overall print achieved.

The fabrics I used for my digital prints were natural fibres, made up from organic sources ie Cotton (cotton plant), Linen (flax), Silk (silkworms) or a combination/blend

eg. Twill Silk, Silk Habotai Medium, Cotton Duck Canvas, Cotton Valdez and Juniper Linen.

These natural fabrics composed of short fibres, called staple fibres, are easier to twist to form yarn which can then be woven into a fabric. The exception to this is silk, one natural fibre made up of continuous filaments. The nature of the fibres denote the Mechanical properties of the fabric, therefore indicating why some fabrics are springier, denser and easier or more difficult to handle and the Physical properties indicate the fabrics which hold their colour better and reflect light with more vibrancy but are prone to fading.

‘A bugger to cut’… even with pinking shears and taping down the fabric with ‘springier’ properties, it was extremely difficult to dissect these patterned pieces into neat samples for a book.

It was also noticeable that when putting together my material swatches, the ‘give’ or stretch of each fabric’s ‘personality’ – ie mechanical and physical properties - altered the length and shape of the printed pattern. I found too that the strength and richness of the colour was determined by the structural properties of a particular fabric.

As I mentioned in a previous blog – Silk or silk blends are more successful for retaining vibrancy of colour and better drape on the body, although they are not lightfast so prolonged exposure to natural light not recommended.

Therefore a fabric with elasticity, strength, fineness and durability to light – Juniper Linen, Twill Silk or Silk Habotai Medium or Heavy – would be effective samples for my current digital pattern work.

 

Variations in the hand and appearance of fabrics with the same fibre content can be caused by differences in the weave or finish used in each fabric as well as in its biological make up.

The Mechanical Properties of Fabric

1. Strength

2. Elasticity

3. Extensibility

4. Rigidity 

The Physical Properties of Fabric

1. Length

2. Fineness

3. Lustre

4. Softness

5. Density

6. Appearance

7. Flexibility

8. Toughness

9. Elongation

Cotton (cellulosic)

Comfortable

Soft hand

Absorbent

Good color retention, prints well

Machine-washable, dry-cleanable

Good strength

Drapes well

Easy to handle and sew

Linen (cellulosic)

Comfortable

Good strength, twice as strong as cotton

Hand-washable or dry-cleanable

Crisp hand

Tailors well

Absorbent

Dyes and prints well

Lightweight to heavyweight

No static or pilling problems

Fair abrasion resistant creases badly

Silk (animal fibre)

Soft or crisp hand

Luxurious

Drapes and tailors well

Thinnest of all natural fibres

Dyes and prints well

Hand-washable or dry-cleanable

Little problem with static, no pilling problem

Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight